Air Jordan 1 History: 1985 Ban, OG Colorways & Collabs
Exploring Air Jordan 1 history reveals what every sneakerhead should know about the shoe that changed sportswear in April 1985. Designed by Peter Moore for $65 retail, the high-top rode a $5,000-per-game NBA fine campaign to $126 million in first-year sales. Across four decades, its OG colorways and collaborations have driven 13% annual division growth.
- 1985 Retail Launch and Revenue: Released in April 1985 at $65 retail, generating $126 million in first-year sales and fueling a division that grew 13% annually per reports.
- The $5,000 NBA Ban Story: NBA officials threatened a $5,000-per-game fine according to league filings in October 1984 over the black-and-red Nike Air Ship.
- Original 1985 Colorways: Debuted in 13 original 1985 colorways led by Bred, Chicago, Royal, Black Toe, Shadow, and UNC across High, Low, and KO cuts.
- Four-Figure Collaboration Grails: Top partnerships include the 2020 Dior High ($2,200 retail), 2017 Off-White Chicago ($190 retail), 2019 Travis Scott Mocha ($175 retail), and 2014 Fragment ($185 retail).
How Did the 1985 Air Jordan 1 and $5,000 NBA Ban Begin?
The Air Jordan 1 debuted at retail in April 1985 for $65 after rookie Michael Jordan signed with Nike in late 1984. Before the signature model was ready, MJ wore a black-and-red Nike Air Ship on October 18, 1984. League officials notified Nike that the colorway violated the NBA’s 51%-white uniform rule.
The $5,000-per-game fine warning applied to the Air Ship per filings. Even so, Nike built a television campaign around the April 1985 high-top. Narrators declared that the NBA banned the shoes, turning the black-and-red (“Bred”) pair into a symbol of rebellion.
Shoppers bought millions of pairs within weeks, generating $126 million in retail sales during 1985 alone. Per EssentiallySports financial coverage, the Air Jordan division still expands by roughly 13% annually.
Which Original 1985 Colorways Define Peter Moore’s Design?
Creative director Peter Moore designed the 1985 high-top with a supportive ankle collar and perforated leather toe box. An encapsulated Air wedge cushions the heel. While the lateral Swoosh anchored Nike branding, Moore sketched the winged basketball (“Wings”) emblem during a flight from Portland.
- “Chicago” (White/Black-Red): The classic Bulls home colorway, reimagined in November 2022 as the “Lost & Found” (DZ5485-612, $180 retail).
- “Bred” / “Banned” (Black/Red): The rebellious black-and-red blocking that starred in the 1985 commercial and 1985 Slam Dunk Contest.
- “Black Toe” & “UNC”: The Black Toe appeared in MJ’s 1985 Jumpman photo shoot, while Dark Powder Blue (“UNC”) honored his college team.
- “Royal”, “Shadow” & Metallics: Off-court staples in black/blue and black/grey leather launched alongside white pairs with metallic Swooshes.
After initial 1985 production ended, the silhouette received its first retro reissues in 1994 and 2001.
How Do High, Mid, and Low Cuts Compare in Build and Retail Price?
Collectors learning how to start a Jordan collection distinguish between three primary collar heights: the High OG, the Mid, and the Low. The High OG features a nine-eyelet ankle collar and woven “Nike Air” tongue tags. It carries a $180 modern retail price, or $200 retail for true-to-1985 “85 Cut” editions.
Introduced in the early 2000s, the Mid drops the collar height by one inch to eight eyelets. It uses a Jumpman tongue tag at $125 retail. The Low launched in 1985 alongside the High and sells for $115 retail in standard trims or $140 retail in “Low OG” builds.
All three cuts are produced across partner factories listed on the Nike Manufacturing Map. Each cut suits everyday outfits covered in our guide on how to wear Jordans.
| Silhouette Cut | Eyelet Count | Tongue Branding | Current Retail MSRP |
|---|---|---|---|
| High ’85 Cut (True 1985 Spec) | 9 Eyelets | Woven Nike Air Tag | $200.00 |
| Retro High OG | 9 Eyelets | Woven Nike Air Tag | $180.00 |
| Retro Low OG | 7 or 8 Eyelets | Woven Nike Air Tag | $140.00 |
| Standard Mid / Standard Low | 8 / 7 Eyelets | Embroidered Jumpman | $125.00 / $115.00 |
Which Collaborations Rank Among the Most Valuable Grail Releases?
Since 2014, luxury houses, musicians, and boutiques have used the 1985 silhouette for historic collaborations. In December 2014, Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Fragment Design High (716371-040, $185 retail) paired Black Toe blocking with royal blue heels. Deadstock pairs trade around $3,200 on secondary platforms.
In September 2017, Virgil Abloh’s Off-White “Chicago” High (AA3834-101, $190 retail) deconstructed the upper with exposed foam. It trades above $4,500 on resale exchanges. In May 2019, Travis Scott’s “Mocha” High (CD4487-100, $175 retail) introduced an oversized reverse Swoosh and hidden collar pocket.
Union Los Angeles contributed vintage stitched-collar pairs in November 2018 ($190 retail). Kim Jones’s Italian-made 2020 Dior High (CN8607-002, $2,200 retail, 8,500 pairs) trades above $16,000 on secondary markets. Both collaborations include custom co-branded boxes, extra lace sets, and specialty hangtags.
How Do Resale Prices and 8% eBay Fees Work on Retro Drops?
Both OG colorways and collaborations maintain deep liquidity across secondary marketplaces. The 2022 “Lost & Found” Chicago High OG ($180 retail) trades around $380 in core men’s sizes. Meanwhile, the 2019 Travis Scott “Mocha” High ($175 retail) averages $1,450 on resale.
Sellers calculating net payouts must account for marketplace commission structures. Per the eBay athletic shoe fee schedule, sneakers sold for $150 or more incur an 8% fee. eBay charges zero separate payment processing surcharges on authenticated sneakers.
Selling a “Lost & Found” pair for $380 on eBay deducts 8% ($30.40) for $349.60 net. Selling a Travis Scott High for $1,450 on eBay deducts 8% ($116.00) for $1,334.00 net. The table below compares retail prices, resale benchmarks, and eBay net payouts.
| Release Edition and Code | Original Retail | Gross Resale Price | eBay Net (after 8% Fee) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2022 Chicago “Lost & Found” (DZ5485-612) | $180.00 | $380.00 | $349.60 |
| 2018 Union LA Black Toe (BV1300-106) | $190.00 | $1,350.00 | $1,242.00 |
| 2019 Travis Scott High (CD4487-100) | $175.00 | $1,450.00 | $1,334.00 |
| 2014 Fragment Design High (716371-040) | $185.00 | $3,200.00 | $2,944.00 |
Where Can Collectors Buy Retro High OG Releases at Retail?
Shoppers researching where to buy Jordans at retail focus on the 10:00 AM ET Nike SNKRS Draw. Foot Locker, JD Sports, and Tier-0 boutiques also release stock simultaneously. Limited High OG collaborations draw hundreds of thousands of entries within 10 minutes, causing fast manual sellouts.
“Pairing early regional boutique raffle entries with automated multi-site checkout tasks gives collectors multiple shots at $180 High OG drops.”
Buyers comparing the best sneaker bots and selecting an all-in-one sneaker bot evaluate Valor AIO, Cybersole, Stellar AIO, and NikeShoeBot. Multi-retailer task groups, residential proxy rotation, and pre-saved billing profiles help collectors compete on Saturday mornings. Always verify factory stitching and box labels upon delivery. Storing deadstock pairs in climate-controlled rooms prevents midsole oxidation over time.
Do Retro High OG and Low OG sneakers fit true to size?
Yes, both the 9-eyelet Retro High OG and 7-eyelet Retro Low OG fit true to standard men’s sizing. Wide-footed wearers sometimes go up 0.5 size on stiffer ’85 Cut leather builds.
What is the difference between a Retro High OG and a High ’85 release?
The $180 retail Retro High OG uses a slightly tapered collar and softer tumbled leather. By contrast, the $200 retail High ’85 replicates 1985 specs with a straighter heel counter and thicker leather.
